Its thriving port, position as Germany’s media capital, and natural splendors — two lakes, three rivers and countless canals — make Hamburg a city of superlatives. Perhaps most interesting: Hamburg is the richest city of Germany, with more millionaires than anywhere else in the country. And that means plenty of shopping, restaurants, culture, and really gorgeous houses at which to marvel in the city center.
For residents, though, to truly ‘arrive’ means an address that either mentions the Elbchaussee, or Blankenese. The Elbchaussee is the road connecting downtown Hamburg with the neighborhood of Blankenese, but to say ‘road’ is to call Chanel a clothes shop – a slight understatement. The Elbchaussee hugs the river Elbe and allows glimpses of the glittering water and huge ships using it as a thoroughfare between the North Sea and Hamburg’s port.
courtesy of Hamburg Tourism
Even more tantalizing are the hints, from behind ancient trees or through a depth of park (which people residing here call their garden), of massive villas that reflect just how wealthy this city truly is. Although some have been converted into business headquarters, a substantial number are still in private ownership and they make it at times a little difficult to concentrate on the road, sorry, on the Elbchaussee.
Some 15 kilometers due west of the city center, Blankenese lies behind one of only two mountainous ridges to be found in and around Hamburg – and those are only just below 100 metres high. Formerly a fishing village, Blankenese was first officially settled in 1301, although in 1060 a castle built on the ridge ensured some level of settlement throughout the ages. the village of Blankenese was separate from Hamburg — even under Danish rule for a while— until 1938.
Clinging onto the steep hillside leading down to the river, some 4,864 steps connect the houses whose owners make the most of the premium space and the inviting views over the river and the lush farmland behind. At the bottom, paths along the river bustle with people enjoying the parks, cafes and restaurants, while children are feeding the ducks or waving to the large ships that toot a welcome. The air here has a slightly salty tang to it.
One of the most attractive places to stop for a respite is the Strandhotel – the beach hotel – dating back to 1902. Once a private villa it is now a boutique hotel with an excellent restaurant serving the freshest fish and a tasty assortment of homemade cakes, while offering the best views over the river and its sandy islands. Just in front lies the landing quay for the ferries and waterbuses that commute between the city centre and Blankenese and are a fun and cheap way of squeezing a little cruise on the river into your visit.
photo courtesy of Bildarchive-Hamburg.de
Back up the hill, the Blankeneser Hauptstrasse — the high street — is an upmarket area for excellent delicatessen shops, independent boutiques and charming cafes. Three times a week, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, the weekly market on the village square offers farm-fresh delights and useful knick-knacks, plus freshly prepared food from stalls. If you are hankering for a little light history, the nearby dolls’ museum is a quirky way to spend an hour or two.
All in all, Blankenese makes for a charming day out. Just remember to bring your accountant’s phone number — in case you fall for one of those white villas set in a few acres of parkland . . . .
One good book: Wallpaper City Guide: Hamburg (Wallpaper City Guides)
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