Montreal: Poutines Are Just the Beginning

Montreal may sound like Paris, but it tastes like poutines. A mess of french fries, gravy and cheese curds, this signature dish captures the engaging and independent culinary personality of French-speaking Canada’s largest city. Originally inhabited by Native Americans, later populated by hunters, trappers and missionaries, and eventually battled over by the French and British, […]

Montreal: By Bicyclette

“I live on the island,” my tour guide says to me.  Seeing skyscrapers all around, I think my mind was playing tricks, but indeed, from the local perspective,  ‘the island’ is how les citoyens de Montreal identify with the boot-shaped city of 1.5 million, surrounded by the waters of the St. Lawrence and the lesser ‘back’ […]

Halifax: Visiting an Enchanted Garden

It felt as if we had been transported to 19th-century England, but we were in the center of Halifax, in the provincial capital’s Public Gardens, one of the finest original Victorian gardens in North America. A band struck up a rousing tune in the octagonal band shell. Fountains splashed. Over the way, a string quarter accompanied the […]